The last time I wrote about Holloway Road’s Nag’s Head on these pages was – astonishingly – back in 2013, when Kentishtowner used to run what we called a “Free Weekend” section.
This weekly slot gently guided readers away from the twin postcodes of NW5 and NW1 into somewhere adjacent that was equally interesting. It’s worth adding that in the years since, however, we’ve featured reviews of the thoroughfare’s game-changing new openings, such as Zia Lucia, Sambal Shiok and Westerns Laundry.
But a return to the market – and junction itself, named after the Nag’s Head pub which closed back in 2004 – has been on the cards for a while. The other Saturday my partner, who lives nearby, and I started our mini adventure at in-the-know “apizza” pub The Bedford for a pilsner (a tomato pie from kitchen residency Lenny’s would have to wait till next time) before crossing over to a newer streetfood market, The Junction.
Calling itself ‘London’s newest streetfood market,’ this corner slither of a space is packed with a dozen outlets, and busy too. The must-visit stall is Happy Dim Sum, one that I’d seen frequently on socials.
Sure enough, it didn’t disappoint. One of their bestsellers is the cheung fun: the slippery steamed rice noodle rolls were filled with an indulgent mix of juicy prawn and egg, slathered in a home-made soy sauce, a pot of tangy hoisin on the side.
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After a pint on the terrace at the Swimmer at The Grafton Arms – a North London classic that’s remained unchanged for 25 years – our next stop was the revamped Nag’s Head Market itself.
Half a century old this year, thankfully it’s retained a healthy mix of nearly 50 traders, from hair salons to butchers. In the last few years, more foodie streetfood outlets have inevitably opened, along with a first floor food hall, The Upper Place, that, on our visit at least, was a little under-occupied and empty.
The hyped place in 2025 is Proper Tacos, a tiny spot overrun with customers. We joined the queue but service was quick, and the blue corn tacos, filled with meltingly soft slow-cooked beef suadero, pork carnitas and marinated chicken delivered big thwacks of flavour. All around us, punters sipped daytime cocktails, while we necked Mexican beer Modelo. Heck, there was even live Mexican music. It was a vibe, an instant holiday in N7.
Our last stops were on Holloway Road itself. After a two-thirds at craft beer bar IndieBeer – which the owner said had been there for eight years, unbeknownst to us – the final destination was, of course, the mighty Provisions.
This is one of North London’s most respected wine bars, with food in the evenings currently handled by Topa, a Basque residency – Topa meaning “cheers” in Basque – which hopes to bring “a taste of San Sebastián’s vibrant food scene.”
Although chef Chino González was born and raised in Buenos Aires, he started his cooking journey at Michelin-starred restaurants in both the South of France and northern Spain.
In residence for two months, and focusing on seasonal ingredients, a mixed plate of pintxos (£17) seemed to be the obvious way into his cooking (and also all we had room for after the previous dishes).
The six bites, pictured above, included spicy harissa lamb, creamy stracciatella topped with olive and anchovy, umami-packed mackerel devilled egg, mussels escabeche and a particularly good black pudding, pear and pine nuts.
All were super tasty pops to accompany a £23 carafe of chilled Sicilian white: while perhaps not quite as dazzling as the pintxos at, say, Ganbara, on my recent trip to San Sebastián, nonetheless this is a genuine delight on Holloway Road.
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Sitting in the window counter, it was fun to people-watch, too. Provisions itself is quite a scene, with folk crowding round barrels, benches and tables on the wide pavement. As we drained our carafe, it occurred to me – as it often does – that it’s always the underrated streets in the capital that over deliver. And that’s what Kentishtowner – and East London sister title Leytonstoner – have long celebrated.
Catch Topa until 28th June at Provisions.
Stephen Emms is a broadsheet travel writer who has also written about the London food scene since the noughties. Follow @stephenemms and @londonbelongs. You can read his Top 100 food & drink Substack here.
